I have padded the peplum and shoulders, hand sewing it on as for the body. I used running stitch and hem stitch to sew the white bias on.
The doublet pattern pieces were sewn together, in the black linen. The edges were turned over, as were the edges of the cotton lining. This was then pinned together, as seen on the right. Though 'bagging' lining is a common practice in costume recreation, La Moda a Firenze, Archeological Sewing, Patterns of Fashion all suggest that the two layers were 'sandwiched together' and either running stitch (visible from the outside) is used to attatch the two, or hem stitch is used.
I used hemstitch to sew the lining to the outer doublet. (right is the inside-out doublet about to be sewn,)
|19th/20th October: Nice stitch length!
The edges of the front and neck was edged in running stitch and stab stitch. The armholes and seam for the peplum were also sewn over with stab stitch. I used 3mm stitches, approx 3mm away from the edge. This was suggested in Patterns of Fashion.
Finally the overstitching is done... (far right)
Now for a few days of making cording... first for the button loops, then for the front decoratoin and to cover the stitching...
Today, I finisghed making the cording, handsewed the button loops (of black cording) and couched the white cording on the front opening and neck. (right)
I finished making the buttons. The buttons are made with a wooden base, with thread wound on it and a pearl on the end. (middle right; using a needle to 'weave' the thread on the wooden base. Far right: the 'pearl' is threaded onto the end). The left over thread is used to sew the button on and create the shank.
This is consistant with buttons found in Patterns of Fashion.
The doublet so far...
This is wearable at this point. With the intended event not far away, the remaining features may have to wait until after, as I still have to make my outfit also. All that is left are the sleeves and handsewn eyelets with white satin ribbon threaded to the outside, for decoration.
Sleeves (June, 2007)
|There is nothing like an event
to kick one in the butt and do something. We were invited to go my
Laurel's wedding in Canberra, in June. We knew it would be cold, but
the possible El Nina has meant minus temperatures and snow! We also
decided to go to a feast in Torlyon that weekend (since we were
there). It would be cold. While I had my new Dutch Cloak, Dafydd did
not as yet have sleeves for this doublet. The sleeves were to be padded
with the cotton bombast, as the main doublet was. This would make it
fairly warm, so here we go... it will finally get done. (I work best
under time constraints.) Right is a picture of the sleeve in progress,
with just the ties to go.
The layers are as follows: outer= linen, lining = cotton drill. Interlining = cotton wadding/bombast sewn to another layer of linen. Again, all of the material is from my 'stash'. I have lots and lots of linen bought at various sales, so we will all be getting a lot of linen clothing in the future. (good for summer as it breathes).
The edges were handsewn with cotton bias (again from my stash). THe decorative cord was handmade and handsewn on.
c. 2006 and June, 2007.