The Florence Files:  Glossario
Recreating 16th Century Florentine and Tuscan  Clothing and Lifestyle












Florence Files























Glossary of some useful terms and Italian translations, compiled by La Signora Onorata Katerina da Brescia from various sources.
Clothing:
  • alla dogalina - sleeve in style of the doge, long and wide all the way down.
  • Amarante - amethyst purple
  • Armschythe: armhole curve in the imbusto pattern.
  • bambagia- linen or cotten interfacing material
  • Baragoni - puffy top of sleeve
  • Borsetta/ borsa - pouch or purse
  • Calandrelli - wooden platform shoes.
  • Calze: stockings
  • Camicia - chemise
  • Capellina - small close fitting cap for female
  • Capello - generic word for hat
  • Capotto - dutch cloak
  • Clockes - area of stocking covering the ankle bone, inside and outside on each leg. Could be decorated and embroidered, either on inside and outside or just the outside of the leg.
  • Convercie - shoulder cape/hankerchief
  • Damaschino- damask
  • Ell - 1 1/4 yds or metres.
  • Extant - actual surviving items originally made at the time in question
  • Faldaglia - skirts
  • gamurra - dress
  • gingerline - reddish-purple
  • Gheroni - gussets
  • Gorgiera - partlet - the fine silk or linen fazzoletti were tucked into or worn over the lower necklines of their dresses
  • Gorgiere (e colletti)  - partlets
  • gozzo - long sleeve
  • Grembiali - aprons
  • guanti- gloves
  • Imbustobodice/ body of the sottana, covering the chest and shoulders.
  • Maniche: sleeve
  • Mantei  - garments of certain size, structured (not loose) worn on the shoulders.
  • Mantellina  - short cape for the neck or shoulder.
  • Manteo  - long cloak, circular or semi circular
  • Morello:  mulberry-coloured.
  • Mochichini - handkerchiefs
  • Orale - old fashioned name for a bordered veil worn over the face
  • Points - cords, ribbons, braids, laces or leather used for tying on sleeves, hose, attatching doublets to trunk hose etc. usually has ends covered in metal aglets (cones).
  • Reta - A knotted net of silk or gold threads, which often incorporated pearls and sometimes other gems, worn over the hair.
  • Scaletta- necklace
  • Scuffia - close fitting womens cap or hat CUFFIA/SCUFFIA (M/F). A coif, i.e. a close-fitting cap or bonnet, sometimes covering the ears and with ties which pass under the chin. It may be made of linen, in which case it is either worn under other kinds of headgear, or worn alone at night. -used by some to equate a cawle/caul
  • Soccaccia - pocket pouch
  • Solana - wide brimmed straw hat, topless
  • Sottana - petticoat or dress. This was originally the underdress, in earlier 16thC, later being more popularly being worn on its own.
  • Toile: pattern made by draping material over the body or mannequin, shaping it to the desired pattern.
  • Velo/ Veletto da Testa - A veil; many are listed in inventories, and may be of fine linen or silk.
  • Venice gold - silver gilt thread imported from Venice
  • Venice silver - silver thread imported from Venice
  • Zimarra - loose gown over sottana. This was originally based on turkish coats but later came to encompass 'generic' loose gowns worn in Florence.
  • Zoccoli - platform shoes of white poplar, not too high, worn by both sexes  

Materials:

  • bombasina - cheap cotten or linen/cotten material, equivalent to fustian, used for lining and interfacing. Also used to name garment made of the material.
  • Brocatelle - is a double jacquard fabric with satin or twill pattern on a plain or satin background. It is a double weave with silk and lines warp with a silk and linen filling - giving an embossed pattern with a 'blistered', raised relief pattern
  • Brocade - is made from a weave of jacquard and dobby. (A type of loom on which small, geometric figures can be woven in as a regular pattern.) The pattern can be in satin weave with a twill background or the other way around - twill pattern on a satin background. There is occasionally with metallic or coloured threads to make a design, making the design stand out with the figures being loose.
  • Boucle- can be of any weavewhich is looped giving a rough appearance. .
  • Buckram - fine woven material of linen, hemp possibly cotton for inexpensive garments , linings, toiles. Can be starched/gummed to stiffen collars and sleeves.
  • Cambric - fine white linen originally made at Cambray, Flanders.
  • Carmerick - fine white linen originally made at Cambray in Flanders
  • Chevron - for of twill weave with diagonal lines reversed (gives ‘V’ pattern)
  • Cisele Velvet - a velvet with the pattern made in cut and uncut loops with a higer profile than uncut velvet.
  • Cotten - cotton
  • Crewell- think worsted lyarn of 2 threads used for embroidery and knitting.
  • Damask/ Damischino - has a shiny pattern on opaque background, all in one colour and reversable. It was originally made of silk and can be made of linen.
  • Ermisino - tafetta
  • Fustian-a-napes - Naples fustian made of cotten, or flax with wool
  • Holland - linen fabric originally made in Holland. Later used as a generic term for linen cloth ranging from fine quality used for shirts for medium weight (linings) to coarser weight used for bed linen and sheets.
  • Jersey - type of thread - wool or cotton or silk? (depending on the source used) used for knitting or type of knitting.
  • Kersey - thin wook of narrow width possibly originally made in Keysey, Suffolk.
  • Lawne - fine delicate linen for making smocks, sleeves and ruffs.
  • Lampas - a type of jacquard material with the raised pattern bound in tabby or twill. It can be 'two tone' or in many colours.
  • Lockeram - linen cloth of various weights used for under sleeves and household linen (QEWU)
  • Rensa - fine linen used for the best Italian linens
  • Sarcenet - thin silk taffetta often used for lining.
  • tela - linen
  • Twill - material which is woven to give a surface of diagonal parallel ridges.
  • Vellat -VELVET - material made from a pile weave wtih an extra warp yarn, warp pile weave, with raised loops. It can be made of silk, cotton.
  • Worsted - a smooth thread spun from wool fibres, laid parallel by combing.
Bibliography:
  • All About Fabrics - Dictionary. http://allaboutfabrics.com
  • Agnes Geijer ,A history of textile art, London. Pasold Research Fund in association with Sotheby Parke Bernet. Totowa, N.J. : distributed by Biblio Distribution Center, 1979
  • Crowfoot E, Pritchard F & Staniland K, Textiles and Clothing 1150-1450, Boydell Press, Woodridge, 2001 (ed) ISBN: 0-85115-840-4
  • Fennell Mazzaoui, Maureen. Italian Cotton Industry in the Later Middle Ages 1100-1600, Cambridge University Press. Cambridge, 1981. ISBN: 0521 230950
  • Florio's World of Words (Italian-English dictionary, 1598.  http://www.pbm.com/%7Elindahl/florio1598/florio_1598.pdf
  • Jones, Ann Rosalind & Stallybrass, Peter. Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory. Cambridge University Press. 2003. ISBN: 0-521-78663-0
  • Orsi Landini, Roberta & Niccoli, Bruna. La Moda a Fioenze 1540-1580. Pagliai Polistampa, Firenze, 2005. ISBN: 88-8304-867-9
  • The Art of Textiles by Alberto Tagliabue http://www.thais.it/arti_minori/tessuto/italiano/Italiano2.htm
  • The Art of Textiles - definitions: http://www.thais.it/arti_minori/tessuto/glossario_uk.htm
© K Carlisle. , 



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© K Carlisle. Jan-April, 2008