

Florence Files

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Glossary of some useful
terms and Italian translations, compiled by La Signora Onorata Katerina da
Brescia from various
sources.
Clothing:
- alla dogalina - sleeve in style of
the doge, long and wide all the way down.
- Amarante - amethyst purple
- Armschythe: armhole curve in the
imbusto pattern.
- bambagia- linen or cotten
interfacing material
- Baragoni - puffy top of sleeve
- Borsetta/ borsa - pouch or purse
- Calandrelli - wooden platform shoes.
- Calze: stockings
- Camicia - chemise
- Capellina - small close fitting cap
for female
- Capello - generic word for hat
- Capotto - dutch cloak
- Clockes - area of stocking covering
the ankle bone, inside and outside on each leg. Could be decorated and
embroidered, either on inside and outside or just the outside of the leg.
- Convercie - shoulder
cape/hankerchief
- Damaschino- damask
- Ell - 1 1/4 yds or metres.
- Extant - actual surviving items
originally made at the time in question
- Faldaglia - skirts
- gamurra - dress
- gingerline - reddish-purple
- Gheroni - gussets
- Gorgiera - partlet - the fine silk or linen fazzoletti were tucked into or
worn over the lower necklines of their dresses
- Gorgiere (e colletti) - partlets
- gozzo - long sleeve
- Grembiali - aprons
- guanti- gloves
- Imbusto
- bodice/ body of the sottana, covering the chest
and shoulders.
- Maniche: sleeve
- Mantei - garments of certain size,
structured (not loose) worn on the shoulders.
- Mantellina - short cape for the
neck or shoulder.
- Manteo - long cloak, circular or
semi circular
- Morello: mulberry-coloured.
- Mochichini - handkerchiefs
- Orale - old fashioned name for a
bordered veil worn over the face
- Points - cords, ribbons, braids,
laces or leather used for tying on sleeves, hose, attatching doublets to trunk
hose etc. usually has ends covered in metal aglets (cones).
- Reta - A knotted net of silk or gold
threads, which often incorporated pearls and sometimes other gems, worn over the
hair.
- Scaletta- necklace
- Scuffia - close fitting womens cap
or hat CUFFIA/SCUFFIA (M/F). A coif, i.e. a close-fitting cap or bonnet,
sometimes covering the ears and with ties which pass under the chin. It may be
made of linen, in which case it is either worn under other kinds of headgear, or
worn alone at night. -used by some to equate a cawle/caul
- Soccaccia - pocket pouch
- Solana - wide brimmed straw hat,
topless
- Sottana - petticoat or dress. This
was originally the underdress, in earlier 16thC, later being more popularly
being worn on its own.
- Toile: pattern made by draping
material over the body or mannequin, shaping it to the desired pattern.
- Velo/ Veletto da Testa - A veil; many are listed in inventories, and may be
of fine linen or silk.
- Venice gold - silver gilt thread
imported from Venice
- Venice silver - silver thread
imported from Venice
- Zimarra - loose gown over sottana.
This was originally based on turkish coats but later came to encompass 'generic'
loose gowns worn in Florence.
- Zoccoli - platform shoes of white
poplar, not too high, worn by both sexes
Materials:
- bombasina - cheap cotten or
linen/cotten material, equivalent to fustian, used for lining and interfacing.
Also used to name garment made of the material.
- Brocatelle - is a double jacquard
fabric with satin or twill pattern on a plain or satin background. It is a
double weave with silk and lines warp with a silk and linen filling - giving an
embossed pattern with a 'blistered', raised relief pattern
- Brocade - is made from a weave of jacquard and dobby. (A type of loom on
which small, geometric figures can be woven in as a regular pattern.) The
pattern can be in satin weave with a twill background or the other way around -
twill pattern on a satin background. There is occasionally with metallic or
coloured threads to make a design, making the design stand out with the figures
being loose.
- Boucle- can be of any weavewhich is
looped giving a rough appearance. .
- Buckram - fine woven material of
linen, hemp possibly cotton for inexpensive garments , linings, toiles. Can be
starched/gummed to stiffen collars and sleeves.
- Cambric - fine white linen
originally made at Cambray, Flanders.
- Carmerick - fine white linen
originally made at Cambray in Flanders
- Chevron - for of twill weave with
diagonal lines reversed (gives ‘V’ pattern)
- Cisele Velvet - a velvet with the
pattern made in cut and uncut loops with a higer profile than uncut velvet.
- Cotten - cotton
- Crewell- think worsted lyarn of 2
threads used for embroidery and knitting.
- Damask/ Damischino - has a shiny
pattern on opaque background, all in one colour and reversable. It was
originally made of silk and can be made of linen.
- Ermisino - tafetta
- Fustian-a-napes - Naples fustian
made of cotten, or flax with wool
- Holland - linen fabric originally
made in Holland. Later used as a generic term for linen cloth ranging from fine
quality used for shirts for medium weight (linings) to coarser weight used for
bed linen and sheets.
- Jersey - type of thread - wool or
cotton or silk? (depending on the source used) used for knitting or type of
knitting.
- Kersey - thin wook of narrow width
possibly originally made in Keysey, Suffolk.
- Lawne - fine delicate linen for
making smocks, sleeves and ruffs.
- Lampas - a type of jacquard material
with the raised pattern bound in tabby or twill. It can be 'two tone' or in many
colours.
- Lockeram - linen cloth of various
weights used for under sleeves and household linen (QEWU)
- Rensa - fine linen used for the best
Italian linens
- Sarcenet - thin silk taffetta often used for lining.
- tela - linen
- Twill - material which is woven to
give a surface of diagonal parallel ridges.
- Vellat -VELVET - material made from
a pile weave wtih an extra warp yarn, warp pile weave, with raised loops. It can
be made of silk, cotton.
- Worsted - a smooth thread spun from
wool fibres, laid parallel by
combing.
Bibliography:
- All About Fabrics - Dictionary. http://allaboutfabrics.com
- Agnes Geijer ,A history of textile art, London. Pasold Research Fund
in association with Sotheby Parke Bernet. Totowa, N.J. : distributed by Biblio
Distribution Center, 1979
- Crowfoot E, Pritchard F & Staniland K, Textiles and Clothing 1150-1450,
Boydell Press, Woodridge, 2001 (ed) ISBN: 0-85115-840-4
- Fennell Mazzaoui, Maureen. Italian Cotton
Industry in the Later Middle Ages 1100-1600, Cambridge University Press.
Cambridge, 1981. ISBN: 0521 230950
- Florio's World of Words (Italian-English
dictionary, 1598.
http://www.pbm.com/%7Elindahl/florio1598/florio_1598.pdf
- Jones, Ann Rosalind & Stallybrass, Peter. Renaissance Clothing and the
Materials of Memory. Cambridge University Press. 2003. ISBN: 0-521-78663-0
- Orsi Landini, Roberta & Niccoli, Bruna.
La Moda a Fioenze 1540-1580. Pagliai Polistampa, Firenze, 2005. ISBN:
88-8304-867-9
- The Art of Textiles by Alberto Tagliabue
http://www.thais.it/arti_minori/tessuto/italiano/Italiano2.htm
- The Art of Textiles - definitions:
http://www.thais.it/arti_minori/tessuto/glossario_uk.htm
© K Carlisle. ,
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