The Florence Files: : Katerina's Florentine Guardaroba
16th century Florentine Clothing Recreated by La Signora Onorata Katerina da Brescia.
Strati di Vesti: The Layers of Florentine Clothing

Sottana: Petticoat gowns
Item: grey linen sottona (based on  Left: Zucchari,1579 and  Tossini's Portrait of woman,  mid 16th century.) made with metal rings on the eyelets to more closely resemble techniques of the time.
Item - black linen Tudor (1st experiment on imbusto stiffening), remade as Italian sottana with 6mm of felt lining.
Item - Florentine Sottana of damashino with maniche slashed.

(Based on  1559 Bronzino's Portrait of a Lady, now thought to be that of Guilia the illigitimate daughter of Allessandro Medici, possibly by Allesandro?.)
Item - Florentine sottana of  damaschino with maniche, slashed and guarded.

remade from sottana below (based on 1540's, based of Portrait of a Florentine Noblewoman)

(Redesgned : based on  Bronzino's portrait of  Maria d' Medici 1551)
Item - Florentine sottana of pale colour, edged in cream trim, sewn in a period fashion.

(based on Bronzino's portrait of  Bia, the illigimate daughter of Cosimo I, 1542) 

Item - Florentine sottana of purplish-red linen, with embroidered guarding, sewn in a period fashion.
Item - veil of silk
Item -girdle of glass pearls and brown glass beads, wtih beaded 'pearl' tassel

(based on Red velvet dress from Pisa La Moda a Firenze, Cristofano dell Altissimo's portrait of Guilia Gonzaga, 1535) 

Item- Florentine sottana of ivory damaschino lyned with lavender linen, worn with a gorgiera of sheer cotton and a linen camicia edged with 'bobbin' lace.

(Based on Eleanora d'Toldeo's burial gown.)

Item- Florentine sottana of damaschino lyned with lavandar tela (linen). Four - paned sleeves with pearl aglets.

 (Based on Agnolo Bronzino's portrait Eleanor d' TOledo and her son. 1555-60)


Item- Florentine gown (1516) of cotton, lyned with lavandar linen.

 (based on Lady with a basket of Spindles by Jacopo Pontormo)

Item-a sottana of lavandar linen garded with amarnate* cotten, lined with canvas, in the middle class Florentine style. (1580's)
Item - a camicia of fine bianco cotten lawne, neckline and sleeves broidered in amarnate
Item - a gorgiera of 'cotten lawne withe gathered collar
Item- (R) - from Fiorenze, gozzo/ sleeve of watchet linen, garded in pale lavender reben, tied withe tassels of lavender.

(Based on - Campi, The Fruit Seller and THe

Item- a Fiorenze sottana of gingerline damaschino edged wth matching cord, sleeves puffed and slashed, lined with cotten lawne and babasina *
(1540's, based of Portrait of a Florentine Noblewoman, Angolo Bronzino. San Diego Museum of Art San Diego)
Item - Guanti/ gloves of leather dyed black
Item - a camicia of fine bianco cotten lawne wroughte in amarnate
UPDATED: I was not happy with the silhouette of this dress. A new corset was made.

Item- a Fliorenze gown of murrey damaschin, garded with black reben with gozzo alla dogalina (sleeves wide all the way down), tied with popinjay reben.

(based on portrait by Vincenzo Catena, seen in the Louvre.)

The diary for this camicia can be found HERE

Veste (overgown), Guibone (doublet):

Item- a linen camicia with bone lace. A florentine sottana of bianco damaschino lined with lavanda tela (linen). A veste of blue and purple woven ermisino (tafetta) therealso a payre of roll maniche (sleeves), bombasted withe cotten and ermisino, with downright panes bound with ebony and gold reben.
(based on Allori/ Bronzino's Maria d' Medici )
Item - a guibone of velluto amarante  lined with lavenda tela (linen), trimmed with 'gold' bobbin lace bands (approximated). therealso a payre of maniche, lined with 'gold satin', with downright panes bound with gold trim. Closures of  'gold' cord with pearl and amethyst points.
A linen gorgiera trimmed with freshwater pearls and drawn work.
(based on Florentine School Lucrezia di Cosimo I, c.1555-60)
Item: A giorgeria (over partlet) of velluto nero, interlined with trivello del cotone (cotton drill) and lined with  lavenda tela. and  buttone

(for use as rapier armour and based on tudor partlets.)

Zimarra, Roba, Manteo (turkish & loose overgowns, Cloaks):

Item - Florentine zimmara of black damischino, lined with purplish-red taffetta, trimmed with cut bias.

(based on Cristofano dell Altissimo's portrait of Guilia Gonzaga, 1535)

Item - Cappotto, of wool, lined with purplish-red taffetta, trimmed with cut bias and buttone.
NEW 2/07:

(based on
Vecellios fig 187 Florentine loose gown and Neopolitan woman... Habitus Variorum Orbis Gentium (1581) &  items listed in Eleanora's Guardaroba. La Moda a Firenze.)

Item- red linen stays 

(based on extant burial stays of Eleanora de Toledo, 1562)
Item- red velvet stays with linen lining.

(based on extant burial stays of Eleanora de Toledo, 1562)

Item- linen calzone, trimmed with amarnate cording.


(16th C Italian: based on Diversarum nationum habitus and women's drawers, found in Prato, Museo del Tessuto. La Mode a Firenze)

Item- linen camicia broidered with amarante silk of pomegranite and bees.

Item- linen camicia with bobbin lace. (hand sewn).
Item- linen camicia broidered with 'golden and black silk
(based on  portrait of Eleanora d'Toledo (1542) (right) by Bronzino and two extant examples in Prato Museum.  (Found in La Moda a Firenze and At Home in Renaissance Italy
Item- Florentine stays based on Janet Arnold's research on the burial outfit of Eleanora d'Toledo (Patterns of Fashion).

Item- Florentine stays based on La Moda a Firenze and the extant item. (coming)

Amarante - amethyst purple

Camicia- chemise
fustian-a-napes - Naples fustian made of cotten, or flax with wool
bambagia- linen or cotten interfacing material
bombasina - cheap cotten or linen/cotten material, equivalent to fustian, used for lining and interfacing. Also used to name garment made of the material.
Damaschino- damask
ermisino - tafetta
guanti- gloves
gorgieria - gorgiera
gingerline - reddish-purple
gamurra - dress
gozzo - long sleeve
alla dogalina - sleeve in style of the doge, long and wide all the way down.
sottana - gown, petticoat (initially worn under another dress, later worn on its own)
tela - linen

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