Calzone of tela (linen), trimmed with amarnate cording.
Finally, I have actually pulled out my pics and research on
drawers and actually started to put together some patterns... (See
also my article on Dressing from the Inside out 6/04)
Extant examples of women's calzoni can be found in
Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd . A History of
Underclothes has an Italian extant example. Both appear
to be from the late 16th century. Pictorial representations
such as Pierto Bertelli's Cortigiana Veneza (Venetian
courtesan) can be found in Diversarum Nationum Habitus ,
1591 (V&A Museum) & 1594-1596 (Banca dati Biblioteca
Riccardiana). From Hispanic Costuming 1480-1520 *,
drawers were mentioned in the 1479 inventory of Duchess
of Alburqurque (linen with white silk cords). Queen Juana
had drawers lined with fur. Yellow drawers of satin, trimmed
with strips of cloth of silver belonged to the Empress.
Drawers were used in Spain before England or France.
Lucrezia Borgia made calzoni fashionable in Italy
Drawers' were not popular in England as they were associated
with courtesans and not appropriate for the upperclass. It
seems that the Italians and Spanish upperclass did not
always hold the same opinion. It cannot be assumed that all
Italian women wore calzoni. One would have to look to
But, for the record, Eleanora's Gardaroba does record one pair
of calzonie made of red satin. It is difficult to know what style
Eleanora's calzoni were, as the details were not recorded.
I have changed my mind on the style of the calzoni.
For information on
my first design LOOK HERE.
Above right is the first idea (after working out the embroidery and
everything!- I will make this next time, I think). Above far right is
my updated version, without as much embroidery. This will mean I have
one pair to wear earlier, and can work on the more decorated pair
5/06: Final Draft Calzoni:
Extant eg. from The History of Underclothes
Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd (p209)
|Diversarum Nationum Habitus (Venice).
||Venetian Woodcut 16th C
16thC Venetian Drawers courtesy of La Mode a Firenze.
This second pattern, right, is based on the above
drawings from the extant examples in The History of
Underclothes and Queen Elizabeths Wardrobe
The calzone from La Mode and Diversarum
Nationum Habitus are wider at the top and appear to be
narrower at the bottom of the leg.
Each example has a tie or 'cuff' at the bottom of the
Though, these drawers look like the venetians (men's
trousers) in Patterns of Fashion, I opted for a
simpler pattern. Trousers would have been made by
professional tailors. In the 16thC, linens (such as
camicias) were made in the home. So this would support the
theory for a simpler pattern.
To make the pattern as simple as possible, and consistant
with the rectangular, square and triangular pattern pieces
for camicia of the time, I have tried to make pattern pieces
along those lines. I decided, as with my first design, to
have a gusset at the crotch. (see Right pattern).
Luckily, I have information from someone who has seen the
Metropolitan Museum's extant drawers first hand. (caitlin_oduibhir
from the Lochac Garb list).
She says: the drawers are gussetted with a long opening at the
'fly'. They have two small eyelets for a point tie to pass through.
(This agrees with my theory, used for my underskirt. )
The extant pair from La Mode, however does appear to have a
button for the closure.A close look at the same pair show (above
right) that they are probably lined (most likely with linen). This
would make sense as they are heavily blackworked and would protect
the outer layer from soiling.
The waistline appears to have knife pleats into the waistband. There
does not appear to be a lot of gathering at the bottom leg.
for this pair I will be using a similar pattern to above, with an
angled leg pattern, with gussets for the crotch. It will be lined
with linen also. The waist will have knife pleating, with little
pleating at the leg. I will either put a tie at the bottom leg, or a
cuff with a button, for decoration.
With the camicia and partlet finished, I returned my
attention to the calzone.
Left: My pattern is designed to give fullness at the
waist and be narrower at the leg hem, as seen in the extant
example from La Mode a Fiorenze, and the pictures
from Diversarum Nationum Habitus. This also
approximates the angled/ triangular pair of extant calzone
from The History of Underclothes.
This also provides a very economical cut, with the
gussets (seen left). I did adjust the measurements to 60cm
across the top, so they would not be too boofy, also this
gave a better fit to the material. The strip down the side,
was used for the waistband and leg cuffs.
Right: is the basic pattern cut from linen, showing where
the gusset will fit. I will line the drawers to the crotch.
It can be seen in the La Mode extant example, that at
least the upper part is lined.
1. The leg seams and crotch gusset and back seams are
sewn. I hand sewed the overstitching (flat felled seam).
2. The top half is lined in the same linen. The front
seam is left open, the edges of the lining is stitched to
the main drawers with small, handsewn running stitches,
3. The waist was knife pleated into the waistband.
At this point, all that is left to do, is to finish
handsewing the waistband, put the cuffs on the legs and
- handmade cord in contrasting colour
- cording at the leg hem, as in La Mode.
- drawstring at the waist.
Right is a picture of my finished pair of calzone and the
Now I have been eyeing off some shot silk which is begging for
slashes and pinking!