A handsewn gorgiera of golden silk with
First was the 1559
Bronzino's Portrait of a Lady,
now thought to be that of Guilia the illigitimate daughter of
The second portrait is Portrait
of a Woman found in the Uffizi, dated around 1550-65 and
possibly by Alessandro Allori.
Both are Florentine from a similar timeline.
both have a gold giorgeria, of
varying complexity, with a
collar. Sumptuary laws, made by Cosimo, allowed for one gold
giorgeria (Moda a Firenze).
This was made from a gold
and silk georgette, I had purchased a few years ago. I used thread
pulled from the material itself, for the handsewing.
Backstitch and running stitch were used to make the seams, using a flat
felled seam, so as to hide the edges and reduce fraying (which this
material does as soon as you look at it!)
A close up (picture enhanced) of the giorgeria shows
a pleated 'strips' on a base of the same colour.
An example of my mock up
for the trim pieces is on the left here.
The trim was made from a long strip which was spit-roll hemmed. It was
then folded into box pleats and sewn in two lines, with backstitch, to
keep in place. The centre folds were then gathered up with a whip
stitch, in the centre, and pleated.
Examples of the trim being made:
These lengths were then
sewn vertically onto the base giorgiera with running stitch.
row finally has a fine gold chain sewn over the stitches, as in the
original inspiration, with running stitch. This very neatly hides a lot
of the stitching!
Right: you can see the chains. Next the shoulder strips were added
(these can just be seen on the portrait), followed by the collar.
The finished item:
giorgiera of gold and silk, adorned with golden chains
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Palazzo Reale, Pisa
Charles. Bronzino: Agnolo Bronzino.
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& Niccoli, Bruna. La Moda a
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Rosalind. Cesare Vecellio's Habiti
Antichi et Moderni: The Clothing of the Renaissance World.
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