I again updated this dress in May 2004, for a Royal Feast, adjusting the baragoni (puffy upper sleeve) and corset. (below)
After a few years more experience and research, I am going to again update this dress, using a more period sleeve pattern SEEN HERE (Immed R: final dress/ Far R: orgiinal sottana for the Ball).
Luckily, I had some of the material leftover from the original dress. More info on FLORENTINE TAILORING.
The Short Version of the Remake:
Hem and neckline:
I made a strip from wool felt and covered it with a bias strip of leftover material. This was attached to the hem on the inside. A pintuck was also added (this required undoing the entire hem and remeasuring, pinning and handsewing on the stiffening strip and edging (2nd photo). The neckline was undone and trim added. This was stabstitched in place, then clipped (3rd photo). Ties were also made from leftover material (far right).
Decoration (and latest inspiration):
I was lucky to have these, as most portraits show sottana made of plain material, even though there is written documentation that patterned materials were used. (La Moda and Medici Archives). Both also show contrasting coloured trim with gold detailing.
Sleeves: For this remake, I am using this pattern (left) based on the Red Pisa Dress discussions found in L'Abito della Granduchessa. Sleeve options can be found on the right: Firstly, the actual dress sleeve can be seen on the right. Middle right is a Bronzino portrait of Maria d'Medici, 1551.
(This is my favourite).
Far right is another Bronzino portrait, A Girl with a Book. I like the slashing and diagonal trim on this one too.
The total look is best completed by the use of a 'boned' coset. There is evidence to suggest that Florentine women did use hard stiffened corsets after 1560's. As this sottana is a later version, I will be using my existing corset until I have a reed one made. This is also an 'easier option' than totally remaking the bodice with stiffened layers, as suggested by recent research. Slack, but it will achieve the desired look wthout totally remaking the entire imbusto with layers of felt and canvas.
Here are pics of the remade dress... I am still not happy with the waistline though.
(c). K.Carlisle, 2009.