This toile was made for two reasons: I needed an underdress for the Maria d' Medici outfit and for a dress based on Eleanor d' Toledo gown from the Bronzino portrait Eleanor d' Toledo and her son.
The pattern is based on patterns from Alcega and Patterns of Fashion.
To experiment, I worked on making a toile for the pattern (this also was extended for the doublet overdress). Then I made up a gowne in some cheap furniture material I had in the cupboard. This will show if the stiffening will be enough to support the overdress and give the right silhouette.
The toile was made with cabbage (leftover) drill from a previous
project. Making a toile involves draping material over a mannequinn
to make a pattern.
I used the furnishing material, lined it with one lot of canvas (if using lighter material in the final gowne, I will have to use 2 layers of canvas) and I lined it with linen, which was blindstitched to the outer bodice.
These days, it seems that half of the dress is handsewing (at least the bits that show).
4. skirt, made with panels and gores as per Alcega's pattern (as I used with the Florentine 1516 gowne) Putting on the skirt:
To finish the skirt seams, I flat-felled them and overstitched with running stitch in grey linen thread. (below).
To help give the shape, the front was dipped as in the
portrait, to flattern the abdomen and help give the correct
shape. This means that the skirt pattern must be cut lower
to fit the front of the bodice.
to get the line for the front skirt.
There is, however, a 'curve' in the skirt at the front. This could account for Eleanora's dress (and similar ones with a peaked bodice) seem to have a '2-piece' front skirt (often covered with braid or gards).
Now this is done, I can work on the kirtle for the Maria d'Medici dress. I can also use this for the basis of an Eleanor d' Toledo (her mother) gowne.
Back to Maria d' Medici kirtleDiary
Back to Eleanor d' Toledo diary
© K Carlisle. 2005-2008
(c). K.Carlisle, 2008.