Purple Files: Buckram stiffening Investigated
My First Tudor gown by La Signora Onorata Katerina da Brescia.
Headwear: A version of a French Hood:|
to be removable, so I
could recycle the dress later for use as an
underdress or tourney dress.
I was happy with the look of the bodice,
It looked comparably 'flat' with regards to the original portraits,
seen on the left.
I used a red linen underskirt instead of a farthingale. Again, Tudor Tailor states that the
farthingale was used later (Princess Elizabeth had one in her
portraits) with the larger sleeves.
The narrower sleeves appear to be an earlier fashion, hence no
portraits have a form of French Hood. I wanted one that was both easy
to wear. I found a really good proposal for the construction of a
French Hood at Mode Historique.
||Firstly, a coif was made
of linen. I hemmed in the edges, turned over the top to form the coif
shape and whipstitched the edges. The trim was made from a metallic
ribbon which I cartridge pleated. (I was not sure it would heat pleat
without melting!) The cord channel was also hand sewn and a
hand-knitted cord added.
|The back was made from
black cotton velveteen (it really pays not to throw out bits of
material!!) to the pattern on the left. (you can see where I planned on
adding the jewels).
The velveteen veiling was flat lined with black 'gold satin' from yet
another project. Millinry wire was used to give a rounded "U" shape to
the front. This was the only wire used in this project.
This makes the whole ensemble very stable.
Inspiration. Right: my interpretation.
- similar tailoring methods were used in 1540s' Italy as to
1540's England. (as to research available)
- stiffening used instead of corset (based on published
- use of linen is suitable substitution (due to cost and
- theory for method of making French Hood
- Hem treatment not visible on portraits.
- Hair under hood is braided and taped
- Use of my Silk
embriodered camicia was appropriate
- Trim on sleeve could be applied "on top" of the sleeve
- the waist was 'dipped' and not straight (it is difficult to
see in either portrait)
- textile belt
The dress stiffening held up very well when at home... until I got into
my car and put the seatbelt on.
Number 1 crunch!
Number 2 crunch: Poor modern posture added to my body type
(really need to loose the middle).
This only 'folding' occurred below the bust. Otherwise the bust and
stomach areas remained quite flat and still are! The buckram held up
really well with the rainy day (I thought the moisture would be my
- Ajmar-Wollheim, Marta & Dennis, Flora (ed). At Home in Renaissance Italy.
V&A Publications London, 2006. ISBN: 10 1 85177 488 2.
- Brown, Pauline. The
Encyclopedia of Embroidery Techniques. New Burlington
Books, London. 2002. ISBN: 1-86155-652-7
- Currie, Elizabeth. Inside
the Renaissance House. V&A Publications, London, 2006. 10 1
85177 490 6.
- Mikhaila, Ninya & Malcolm-Davies, Jane. The Tudor Tailor. BT
Batsford.London. 2006. ISBN:0 7134 8985 5
- Tudor Research -
www_kimiko1_com.htm (Portrait of a
- new tudor portratis
French Hoods (Sarah Lorraine)http://modehistorique.com/elizabethan/french_hood/french_hoods.html
- anne boleyn gallery
Sewing by Heather Rose Jones (2001)
(new adsottana: 8/06)
- Archive of Stitches from Extant Textiles.
- Sewing Stitches Used in
Medieval Clothing: http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/stitches.htm
- HABERDASHERY FOR USE IN
DRESS 1550-1800 by POLLY HAMILTON BA (Hons)
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