The Florence Files: Mantellina - shoulder cape of Florence
The mantellina was a short
cloak, often described as a cape for the shoulders or neck. It was
apparently similar to the 'gollar' worn by German women. Its main
function was warmth. It could be worn underneath or on top of longer
cloaks. La Mode a Fiorenze also
surmises that the mantellina was worn in bed or in the home for
protection against the cold.Materials used for the mantellina were:
wool, velvet or satin or
ermesino (tafetta). Prescious silks were usually preferred. The
mantellina was usually lined wtih ermine. The colour red was common, as
was gold embroidery and hungarian style frogs for closures.
Documentation is found at: Mantellina
This was originally made as part of a competition called 'Keeping warm'.
At this time, I did not have much documentation on Italian mantellino,
and based much of the pattern and information on german gollars.
I
still have not been able to find information on the actual pattern from
Italian mantellino, other than (as expected) they were used in a
similar fashion.
Method:
To get the fit over the back and neck, I used a 2 piece
pattern with a 'gore' at the shoulder. These were sewn together,
embroidered and embellished, then lined. Materials were dictated by the
remains in my material stash, while trying to use period materials.
The goller was made out of purple cotton velveteen, lined with Thailand
(2-tone) silk, gifted to me by Master Tovye Woolmongre. Both velveteen
and silk are very warm materials and should serve the purpose of
'keeping me warm' very well. (La Mode a Fiorenze states precious silks were used for mantellina)
Figure 1: couching of metallic silver thread |
I used silver metallic thread to couch '3 chevronells' - part of my arms - on the edge of the
goller. (German gollar: Though I could find any documentation for the
positioning of the embroidery, Mistress Rowan had commented that
this is a likely place for embroidery on a goller, having found one
"with what looks like chain applied as a decoration just inside the edge - could be gold cord applied in a chain-like pattern." (quoted)
I finished the edge, of my mantellina, with small
faux-pearls I found in my stash. This also gave a bit more weight to
the gollar, helping it to stay in place.
I used a contrasting band at the bottom of the chevronells, so they did not look unfinished.
Examples of contrasting bands have been discussed already.
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Figure 2: finished gollar, back
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Figure 3 (middle): Finished gollar, showing front and collar. |
Figrure 4 (far right): close up of pearl edging and decorative
treatment. |
Decoration is the hardest thing when there is no pictorial
evidence. I did add a 'frog' to the front, as this was specifically
mentioned as a form of decoration for mantellino. This was also a
very practicle thing, reducing the slip factor and keeping the dang
thing on! Here is the finished item...
BIBLIOGRAPHY
(Life in Tudor age)
www Kressfoundation dot org
Appelbaum, Stanley. Drawings of Albrecht Durer, Dover, NY 1970, ISBN: 0-486-22352-3
(Fig 40 Portrait of a girl- shows shoulder seams on simple goller.
Kohler, Carl. A History of Costume, Dover, NY 1963 ISBN: 86-21030-8
Holbein, Hans the Younger. Dance of Death, Dover, NY, 1971.
Durer and german renaissance printmaking, Art Gallery of South Australia, Adelaide, 1996.
p55 Melancholia simole with no visible shoulder seam
WEBSITES:
For more pics:
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Delphi/3212/h-cost3/german3-29-98.html
http://oonagh.actewagl.net.au/german_flirtation.htm german flirtation - Oonagh
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Signora Onorata Katerina da Brescia (K Carlisle), except those
original renaissance artworks and extant articles whose copyright
remains with the current owner.
If you would like to use something from
this site, please contact me, and cite this website reference.
c. K.Carlisle. 2006
