redesigning my rapier outfit, I needed a Tudor-style overpartlet. I had
some drill and black velvet in the cupboard, so had the following punch
tested (passing with no problem):
The sides were made lower than normal, to allow for movement of the
arms and to overlap the sottana (dress). The neckline of the sottana is
approximately half way down the overpartlet. There is a 3 inch overlap
at the button closure.
- 1 outer layer of decorative velvet (does not really
count towards the layers, as there is no resistance to rapiers)
- 3 layers of drill
- 1 layer of linen lining.
The button closure is made of a cord to form loops.
The pattern was loosely
based on my other linen partlets, extended lower on the side seams, as
discussed above. I made a toile to get the fit. Initially, the back was
tighter. However, this gave too much upward movement with extreme arm
movements. The slightly looser back, while not as asthetically
pleasing, mimizes upward movement.
Pattern: Front. Collar front. Back (on fold) with back collar as part
of the pattern.
- Arnold, Janet Patterns
of Fashion 4, MacMillan, London, 2008. ISBN: 978-0-333-57082-1
- Chiarini, Marco (ed). The Official Guide: Pitti Palace -
all the museums, all the works. Sillabe s.r.l, Livorno. 2001. ISBN:
- L'Abito della Granduchessa; Vesti di corte
di Madonne nel Palazzo Reale di Pisa. Museo Nazionale di
Palazzo Reale, Pisa
Charles. Bronzino: Agnolo Bronzino.
Chaucer Press. London. 2005. ISBN:1-904449-48-4
- Orsi Landini, Roberta
& Niccoli, Bruna. La Moda a
Firenze 1540-1580. Pagliai Polistampa, Firenze, 2005. ISBN:
- Rosenthal, Margaret F, Jones, Ann
Rosalind. Cesare Vecellio's Habiti
Antichi et Moderni: The Clothing of the Renaissance World.
Thames and Hudson, London. 2008. ISBN: 978-0-500-51426-9.
K Carlisle, 2009