The Florence Diaries: Elizabethan Jacket for Rapier.
Recreated by La Signora Onorata Katerina da Brescia.






Alternate Rapier Armour - for easy dressing and Practice
Finally, I have managed to start (and finish my rapier hood). I had to wait until I ordred a mask and recieved it, as the hood is designed to go over the mask. This way, it looks more like a hood.  This idea first formed in 2005 when I decided to make a rapier outfit that looked like an outfit that a woman of the 16th C would wear. Firstly, I made a complete outfit with Italian-style sottana (dress), drawers, camicia, faldia (underskirt), hose and partlet. However, this is not easy to just pop on if I am practicing or there is a 'spur of the moment' tourney.... so I decided to make a jacket that would cover the SCA rapier requirements by just poping over an exissting skirt or dress or a pair of jeans, for practice work... I still wanted to have a vaguely authentic pattern to the outfit, so decided on an Elizabethan women's jacket, with  the necessary modifications. 

Left is an example of an extant embroidered Elizabethan jacket from the Bath Museum. 

Pattern:
I made a toile based on Elizabethan jackets. Examples of proposed patterns are in Tudor Tailor. I lengthened the jacket to cover the groin area to keep the jacket within the rapier rules. The groin area must be puncture resistant which usually works out to be 4 layers of closely woven material. The toile then became the linen lining.

I added a collar to cover some of the neck protection requirements. This area will also have a gorget and coif. 


Construction:

Gussets were placed: 2 at the front, one each side and one in the centre back. They were machine overstitched and whipstitched into place to strengthen the gussets for use. Each piece has 3 layers of cotton drill (from stash) and one layer of lilac coloured linen as lining (also from stash).

Right, you can see the sleeve layers at the top half of the upper arm.


Decorations:
The replica buttons were purchased, a few years ago, from Steve Millington Pewter. Finally, a chance to use them! The button closure were loops as seen below. ( I used a continuous cord to try to add extra re-inforcement and strength.  These can be seen below with the final jacket. Though....
I am tempted to add some cording on the seams, as it does look very plain!!  Just have to confirm the punch testing now...

Caio!

Bibliography:

  • Arnold Janet, Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, Maney, Leeds, 1988, ISBN:0-901286-20-6
  • Kovesi Killerby, Catherine, Sumptuary Law in Italy 1200-1500, Oxford University Press. NY. 2002. ISBN:0-19-924793-5
  • Crowfoot E, Pritchard F & Staniland K, Textiles and Clothing 1150-1450, Boydell Press, Woodridge, 2001 (ed) ISBN: 0-85115-840-4
  • Frick, Carole Collier. Dressing Renaissance Florence.: Families Fortunes & Clothing. John Hopkins University Press. Baltimore. 2002. ISBN: 0-8018-6939-0
  • Gostelow, Mary Blackwork, Dover, New York ,1998, ISBN 0-486-40178-2
  • Gastelow, Mary (ed). The Complete Guide to Needlework: Techniques and Materials. Quantum Books. London. 2003. ISBN: 1-86160-722-9
  • Levey, Santina & Payne, Patricia Le Pompe: Patterns for Venetian Bobbin Lace, Ruth Bean, Bedford. 1983. ISBN: 0 903585 16 2
  • Mikhaila, Ninya & Malcolm-Davies, Jane. The Tudor Tailor. BT Batsford.London. 2006. ISBN:0 7134 8985 5
  • Ricci, Elisa. Italian Lace Designs: 243 Classic Examples. Dover, NY, 1993. ISBN: 0 486 27588 4 Lace, Bookking International. Paris, 1995. (no ISBN available).
  • Orsi Landini, Roberta & Niccoli, Bruna. La Moda a Fioenze 1540-1580. Pagliai Polistampa, Firenze, 2005. ISBN: 88-8304-867-9
  • Ricci, Elisa. Old Italian Lace Volume 1. William Heinemann, London. 1913 available on line: http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books.html
  • Lace, Bookking International. Paris, 1995. (no ISBN available).
  • Veccellio, Cesare. Vecellio's renaissance Costume Book. Dover Publications. NY. 1977. ISBN: 0 48623441X
  • Willet, C. & Cunnington, Phillis, A History of Underclothes, Dover Publications, NY, 1992, ISBN: 0-486-27124-2

    Web Sites:
  • V&A Museum website: http://images.vam.ac.uk
  • Bath Museum of Costume: http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk
  • Warwickshire Museum Website www.datavista.co.uk
  • Diversarum nationum habitus - http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/riccard/12886/htm/vol1.htm
  • Oonagh's Own: http://oonagh.actewagl.net.au/
  •  Elizabethan Costume Page http://costume.dm.net/bath/bathsmock1front.jpg
  • "How much yardage is enough" Susan Reed, 1994. http://patriot.net/~nachtanz/SReed/fabuse.html
  • Suggested Yardages for Elizabethan Garments by Drae Leed. http://costume.dm.net/yardages.html# (29/5/03)
  • V&A web site: http://www.vam.ac.uk/ (May, 2004)
  • "How much yardage is enough" Susan Reed, 1994. http://patriot.net/~nachtanz/SReed/fabuse.html
  • Archeological Sewing by Heather Rose Jones (2001) www.virtue.to/guest_authors/archaeological_sewing.html (5/04)

(c). K.Carlisle, 2010



And for those who like LIVE JOURNALS... However be warned, I do not update regularly.

All intellectual content, photos and layout are copyright to La Signora Onorata Katerina da Brescia (K Carlisle), except those original renaissance artworks and extant articles whose copyright remains with the current owner.
If you would like to use something from this site, please contact me, and cite this website reference.

(c). K.Carlisle, 2009.

lete Guide to Needlework: Techniques and Materials. Quantum Books. London. 2003. ISBN: 1-86160-722-9
  • Levey, Santina & Payne, Patricia Le Pompe: Patterns for Venetian Bobbin Lace, Ruth Bean, Bedford. 1983. ISBN: 0 903585 16 2
  • Mikhaila, Ninya & Malcolm-Davies, Jane. The Tudor Tailor. BT Batsford.London. 2006. ISBN:0 7134 8985 5
  • Ricci, Elisa. Italian Lace Designs: 243 Classic Examples. Dover, NY, 1993. ISBN: 0 486 27588 4 Lace, Bookking International. Paris, 1995. (no ISBN available).
  • Orsi Landini, Roberta & Niccoli, Bruna. La Moda a Fioenze 1540-1580. Pagliai Polistampa, Firenze, 2005. ISBN: 88-8304-867-9
  • Ricci, Elisa. Old Italian Lace Volume 1. William Heinemann, London. 1913 available on line: http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books.html
  • Lace, Bookking International. Paris, 1995. (no ISBN available).
  • Veccellio, Cesare. Vecellio's renaissance Costume Book. Dover Publications. NY. 1977. ISBN: 0 48623441X
  • Willet, C. & Cunnington, Phillis, A History of Underclothes, Dover Publications, NY, 1992, ISBN: 0-486-27124-2

    Web Sites:
  • V&A Museum website: http://images.vam.ac.uk
  • Bath Museum of Costume: http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk
  • Warwickshire Museum Website www.datavista.co.uk
  • Diversarum nationum habitus - http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/riccard/12886/htm/vol1.htm
  • Oonagh's Own: http://oonagh.actewagl.net.au/
  •  Elizabethan Costume Page http://costume.dm.net/bath/bathsmock1front.jpg
  • "How much yardage is enough" Susan Reed, 1994. http://patriot.net/~nachtanz/SReed/fabuse.html
  • Suggested Yardages for Elizabethan Garments by Drae Leed. http://costume.dm.net/yardages.html# (29/5/03)
  • V&A web site: http://www.vam.ac.uk/ (May, 2004)
  • "How much yardage is enough" Susan Reed, 1994. http://patriot.net/~nachtanz/SReed/fabuse.html
  • Archeological Sewing by Heather Rose Jones (2001) www.virtue.to/guest_authors/archaeological_sewing.html (5/04)

  • (c). K.Carlisle, 2010



    And for those who like LIVE JOURNALS... However be warned, I do not update regularly.

    All intellectual content, photos and layout are copyright to La Signora Onorata Katerina da Brescia (K Carlisle), except those original renaissance artworks and extant articles whose copyright remains with the current owner.
    If you would like to use something from this site, please contact me, and cite this website reference.

    (c). K.Carlisle, 2009.