Purple Files: Kat's Rapier Calze based on everyday mid 16th C Florentine clothing
Recreated by La Signora Onorata Katerina da Brescia.






Calze/ Stockings:

Extant examples of women's stockings can be found in Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd. Both are from the late 16th century. Pictorial representations such as Pierto Bertelli's Cortigiana Veneza (Venetian courtesan) can be found in Diversarum Nationum Habitus , 1591 (V&A Museum) & 1594-1596 ( Banca dati Biblioteca Riccardiana ).

For this project, I decided to make a new pair of stockings. This time, I will make them longer, to allow for overlap under the drawers. This will provide the layer required on the lower half of the legs.

Decoration:
This was mainly for English stockings. Eleanor d'Toledo's stockings were of red. Trimmings mentioned, in Warrant of the Robes, included: welted (tops) with vellat, tops stitched with Irish stitch, stitched toppes and clockes, stitched with sondry silk colours, lace of silke, venice gold and venice silver embroidery, red fringe, yellow silke worke, red with red silke worke, red with yellow silke worke, grene with sondry colours

Bibliography:

Websites:

  • Diversarum nationum habitus - http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/riccard/12886/htm/vol1.htm
  • Lochac Rapier Rules: http://www.sca.org.au/rapier/rules.htm
  • Archeological Sewing by Heather Rose Jones (2001) www.virtue.to/guest_authors/archaeological_sewing.html (5/04)
  • Caerleon, Megge,Medieval Women’s Hose: www.antir.com/meghan/hose.html (revisited: 22/7/03)
  • Caerleon, Megge, Tempus Peregrinator's Sewing & Garb Accessories Site: Bag Stockings
  • http://www.pipcom.com/~tempus/sewing/legs_bsocks.html (revisited: 22/7/03)
  • Carlson, Marc Some Clothing of the Middle Ages.
  • www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/hose.html (24/5/03)
  • Chausses and Braies: www.randyasplund.com/browse/medieval/chausse1.html (3/11/02)
  • Historical Shoe designs: Footed hose (14th -16th C):
  • www.bm.com/~lindahl/carlson/SHOES/SHOES54.HTM (31/3/98)
  • Kenton, Donna Flood. Hand Knit Hose. 1998: www.dabbler.com/ndlwrk/stocking.html
  • (5/8/00, revisited 22/7/03)
  • McGann, Kass, The Carnamoyle Stockings — Irish Wool Stockings from the 16th Century
  • http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/irish/stocai.html (24/5/03)
  • Renaissance Tailor: Demonstrations: Stockings: http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_stockings.htm (revisited 23/7/03)

Books:

  • Arnold Janet, Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, Maney, Leeds, 1988, ISBN:0-901286-20-6
  • Kovesi Killerby, Catherine, Sumptuary Law in Italy 1200-1500, Oxford University Press. NY. 2002. ISBN:0-19-924793-5
  • Crowfoot E, Pritchard F & Staniland K, Textiles and Clothing 1150-1450, Boydell Press, Woodridge, 2001 (ed) ISBN: 0-85115-840-4
  • Frick, Carole Collier. Dressing Renaissance Florence.: Families Fortunes & Clothing. John Hopkins University Press. Baltimore. 2002. ISBN: 0-8018-6939-0
  • Kohler, Carl, A History of Costume, Dover Publications, NY,1963, ISBN: 486-21030-8
  • Konig, Eberhard, Masters of Italian Art: Carravaggio, Konemann, Cologne, 1998,ISBN: 3-8290-0243-2
  • Willet, C. & Cunnington, Phillis, A History of Underclothes, Dover Publications, NY, 1992, ISBN: 0-486-27124-2
  • Fennel Mazzoui, Maureen. The Italian Cotton Industry in the Later Middles Ages 1100-1600, Cambridge University press, 1981. (thanks to Galiana de Baiona).
  • Willet, C. & Cunnington, Phillis, A History of Underclothes, Dover Publications, NY, 1992, ISBN: 0-486-27124-2
  • Rutt, Richard. A History of Hand Knitting. Interweave Press. 1987. ISBN: 1-931499-37-3
  • Egerton Castle, Schools and Masters of Fencing - from the Middle Ages to the Eighteeenth Century. Dover Publications. NY, reprint 2003. ISBN: 0-486-42826-5





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