Purple Files: Kat's Rapier Calzone based on everyday mid 16th C Florentine clothing
Recreated by La Signora Onorata Katerina da Brescia.

15/9/05

Calzone (Drawers):
Finally, I have actually pulled out my pics and research on drawers and actually started to put together some patterns... (See also my article on Dressing from the Inside out 6/04) . The calzone  provide two layers for the groin and one layer for the upper leg area, with the Faldia (underskirt) providing another layer.

10/10/05:  Decoration:I could not use the slashed version seen in Diversarum (this will not be a good idea for rapier), so a plainer pair are the go for now. 

CALZE DIARY
Extant examples of women's drawers can be found in Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd . A History of Underclothes has an Italian extant example. Both appear to be from the late 16th century. Pictorial representations such as Pierto Bertelli's Cortigiana Veneza (Venetian courtesan) can be found in Diversarum Nationum Habitus , 1591 (V&A Museum) & 1594-1596 (Banca dati Biblioteca Riccardiana). From Hispanic Costuming 1480-1520 *, drawers were mentioned in the 1479 inventory of Duchess of Alburqurque (linen with white silk cords). Queen Juana had drawers lined with fur. Yellow drawers of satin, trimmed with strips of cloth of silver belonged to the Empress. Drawers were used in Spain before England or France. Lucrezia Borgia made drawers fashionable in Italy (Ferarra). It cannot be assumed that all Italian women wore drawers. One would have to look to individual inventories.

BACK TO RAPIER OUTFIT

Bibliography:

  • Anderson, Ruth Mathilde. Hispanic Costuming 1480-1520 p 215 (info supplied by Mistress Constanzia de Zamora via email list - thanks)*
  • Egerton Castle, Schools and Masters of Fencing - from the Middle Ages to the Eighteeenth Century. Dover Publications. NY, reprint 2003. ISBN: 0-486-42826-5
  • Arnold Janet, Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, Maney, Leeds, 1988, ISBN:0-901286-20-6
  • Kovesi Killerby, Catherine, Sumptuary Law in Italy 1200-1500, Oxford University Press. NY. 2002. ISBN:0-19-924793-5
  • Crowfoot E, Pritchard F & Staniland K, Textiles and Clothing 1150-1450, Boydell Press, Woodridge, 2001 (ed) ISBN: 0-85115-840-4
  • Frick, Carole Collier. Dressing Renaissance Florence.: Families Fortunes & Clothing. John Hopkins University Press. Baltimore. 2002. ISBN: 0-8018-6939-0
  • Kohler, Carl, A History of Costume, Dover Publications, NY,1963, ISBN: 486-21030-8
  • Konig, Eberhard, Masters of Italian Art: Carravaggio, Konemann, Cologne, 1998,ISBN: 3-8290-0243-2
  • Willet, C. & Cunnington, Phillis, A History of Underclothes, Dover Publications, NY, 1992, ISBN: 0-486-27124-2
  • Fennel Mazzoui, Maureen. The Italian Cotton Industry in the Later Middles Ages 1100-1600, Cambridge University press, 1981. (thanks to Galiana de Baiona).
  • Levey, Santina & Payne, Patricia Le Pompe: Patterns for Venetian Bobbin Lace, Ruth Bean, Bedford. 1983. ISBN: 0 903585 16 2
  • Ricci, Elisa. Italian Lace Designs: 243 Classic Examples. Dover, NY, 1993. ISBN: 0 486 27588 4 Lace, Bookking International. Paris, 1995. (no ISBN available).
  • Ricci, Elisa. Old Italian Lace Volume 1. William Heinemann, London. 1913 available on line: http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books.html
  • Lace, Bookking International. Paris, 1995. (no ISBN available).
  • Veccellio, Cesare. Vecellio's renaissance Costume Book. Dover Publications. NY. 1977. ISBN: 0 48623441X
  • Willet, C. & Cunnington, Phillis, A History of Underclothes, Dover Publications, NY, 1992, ISBN: 0-486-27124-2


  • Web Sites:
  • V&A Museum website: http://images.vam.ac.uk
  • Bath Museum of Costume: http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/ http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/index.cfm?fuseAction=SM.nav&UUID= 013DFA14-32A6-4A33-B3CDA4E8E00C9D49)
  • Warwickshire Museum Website www.datavista.co.uk
  • Diversarum nationum habitus - http://www.istitutodatini.it/biblio/images/riccard/12886/htm/vol1.htm
  • Oonagh's Own: http://oonagh.actewagl.net.au/
  •  Elizabethan Costume Page http://costume.dm.net/bath/bathsmock1front.jpg
  • "How much yardage is enough" Susan Reed, 1994. http://patriot.net/~nachtanz/SReed/fabuse.html
  • Suggested Yardages for Elizabethan Garments by Drae Leed. http://costume.dm.net/yardages.html# (29/5/03)
  • Smocks and Chemises (Drae Leed) http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/chemise.html (5/8/00)
  • Lochac Rapier Rules: http://www.sca.org.au/rapier/rules.htm
  • A Reconstructed Chemise by Kass McGann http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/beginners/chemise.html 5/11/03
  • V&A web site: http://www.vam.ac.uk/ (May, 2004)
  • How to make an easy Italian chemise - Festive Attyre (May, 2005) homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre
  • "How much yardage is enough" Susan Reed, 1994. http://patriot.net/~nachtanz/SReed/fabuse.html
  • Archeological Sewing by Heather Rose Jones (2001) www.virtue.to/guest_authors/archaeological_sewing.html (5/04)




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