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Sottana (Dress)
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The sottana was made from furnishing brocade. It was
lined
with a layer of cotton drill and lined in linen. This will
provide 3
layers for the upper chest and body for the rapier outfit. It was
originally made to be
worn with the georgiera (partlet) and guibone (doublet) on the upper
chest. After finding the guibone too hot, I rethought my options and
made a
black velvet partlet, to be worn over the sottana. This was made of 4
layers and was puncture proof. The sottana is worn with the
camcia on the body, giving four layers, being puncture proof. The
armpit
protection is supplied by four layers in the camicia. This sottana is
designed so that the long
sleeves can be worn in cooler weather and removed in hot weather while
still keeping the required layers of protection.
I adapted the pattern from Eleanora d' Toledo from Janet Arnold's Pattern
of Fashion. There were no available extant sleeves for this gown,
so I based the sleeve pattern from Alcega's pattern book. This was
a shallow headed sleeve that is slightly bent at the elbow, to allow
more easily for movement.
SOTTANA DIARY
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BACK TO RAPIER OUTFIT
Bibliography
- Ricci, Elisa. Old Italian Lace Volume 1. William Heinemann,
London. 1913 available on line:
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books.html
- Kovesi Killerby, Catherine, Sumptuary Law in Italy
1200-1500, Oxford University Press. NY. 2002. ISBN:0-19-924793-5
- Piponnier, Francoise & Mane, Perrine Dress in the
Middle Ages, Yale University Press, New Haven, 1997. ISBN:
0-300-08691-1
- Crowfoot E, Pritchard F & Staniland K, Textiles and
Clothing 1150-1450, Boydell Press, Woodridge, 2001 (ed) ISBN:
0-85115-840-4
- Arnold, Janet Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, Maney,
Leeds, 1988, ISBN:0-901286-20-6
- Arnold, Janet Patterns of Fashion, MacMillan, London, 1985.
ISBN: 0-333-38284-6
- Frick, Carole Collier. Dressing Renaissance Florence.:
Families Fortunes & Clothing. John Hopkins University Press.
Baltimore. 2002. ISBN: 0-8018-6939-0
- Jones, Ann Rosalind & Stallybrass, Peter. Renaissance
Clothing and the Materials of Memory. Cambridge University Press. 2003.
ISBN: 0-521-78663-0
- Oonagh's Own: http://oonagh.actewagl.net.au/
- goldsword.com
- elizabethgeek.com
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