Files: 17th Century French Dress(diary)
La Signora Onorata Katerina da Brescia.
some inspirations, for this outfit, at Riene des Centfeuilles (left and
right) , museum websites and museum examples posted online. I was
aiming for the 1780's feel, being more casual than earlier pannier
I particularly liked the look of the caraco (jacket) on the right but
did not have the time to do all that spectacular embroidery. I decided
to use trim to decorate in place.
Below are other inspirations, along similar lines of construction:
The basics are: slim sleevs, 2 layer front with an inverted 'V' for the
overlay, front closure with either lacing or hook and eye.. Skirt could
be matching or sheerer white cotton(?). Hats were big, as was
- Anglaise, 1787 (Metropolitan
Museum of Art)
- A Redingcote (riding coat) from a Versaillles exhibit. (Flickr - Johanni)
- and from the movie, The
Duchess. (The Costumer's Guide)
examples, showing the pleated 'peplum' can be found far right: Caraco
Jacket, c.1780-90 (Kohler) and right: Metropolitan Museum
My final design was:
I was hoping to use some material
I had in stash.... some striped silk (right),
striped pattern cotton (middle right), remake an old 17th C corset. I
had my wedding shoes restretched to wear. I had some long white, over
the knee socks which worked well for the hose.
I have a large
number of straw hats from op-shops. The only thing I had to buy for
this project was some trim. (far right)
Layers and Patterns:
Costumers' Manifesto has examples of 18th century
patterns, including the two (right) which are versions of caraco/
jackets. From this I came up with the following:
The Caraco/jacket was then toiled as below.
A new smock was made from some Egyptian cotton I bought about 15 years
ago.... finally something nice to make it into!
Below centre, is a rare example of an extant skirt of the period. The
bumroll was reused from an old Ellizabethan outfit. Research seems to
suggest that there were ties that wrapped front and back.
I tried a new method of hemming: First I did the hem, then pulled the
skirt to reposition, at the waist, then recut the top. Seemed to work.
Below right is the finished skirt.
I used feathers, flowers (bought cheaply after
a Melbourne cup a few years ago), ribbons and left over material and
trim, for the hat. I purchased a cheap ringlet wig online, found some
black velvet ribbon and medallion, for the necklace. My specs I have
had for about 10 years.
On the day/ The Final Outfit:
Before and after the event (I had forgotten to take my neato white kid
gloves that I 'inherited' from my grandmother-in-law... damn....)
- Arnold, Janet Patterns of
Fashion 1, MacMillan, London, 1972. ISBN: 0-89676-026-X
- Kohler, Carl, A History of Costume, Dover Publications,
NY,1963, ISBN: 486-21030-8
- Caraco Jacket (extant) pictures
found at Bayrisches National
Museum on Mme du Jard's Flickr
- The Costumers' Guide (The
- The Costumers' Manifesto (18th
C Patterns) http://costumes.org/ and 18th century Patterns at:
- De Mode: Real Women's Clothing
- Flickr - Johanni
- Jenny Lafleur Quilted Petticoat.
- Jessamyn's Regency Costume
COmpanion: The Petticoat.
- Metropolitan Museum of
Art/ The Costume INstitiute
- Riene des Centfeuilles.
- Victoria & Albert Museum:
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are copyright to La
Signora Onorata Katerina da Brescia (K Carlisle), except those
original renaissance artworks and extant articles whose copyright
remains with the current owner and are for research purposes.
If you would like to use
this site, please contact me, and cite this website reference.
K Carlisle. , 2009